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Gourmet Street Food: Best Falafel Restaurants in Paris

Tue, 21 May 2013 07:32:01 +0000

I've been on something of a mission lately to build up a bank of info on how to eat well in Paris as a vegetarian. I'm not a strict one myself, but rarely eat meat, and know that readers looking for vegetarian options often encounter epic difficulties figuring out where, and what, to eat in a culinary culture that prizes meat. In comes the falafel, that nearly universally coveted, yet miraculously vegan, Middle Eastern sandwich. Even more miraculously, perhaps, Paris counts several of the best falafel restaurants I know of-- and coming from Los Angeles, where Middle Eastern communities are large, that's something of a tall order. I've put together a complete guide to the best falafel restaurants in Paris, listing my own preferred spots for a sandwich I too often crave. Feel free to comment below on your own favorites in the city.

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Image credit: Jeff Keene/Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons license.

June in Paris: Free Music, Pride Parades, and More

Tue, 21 May 2013 02:09:53 +0000

We're inching ever-closer to June, a month that, in Paris, is synonymous with the joyous ushering in of the festivals season. Musicians of both the amateur and professional persuasion take to the Parisian streets and sidewalks on June 21st for the annual Fête de la Musique (Street Music Festival), and events like Paris Gay Pride (Marche des Fiertes) attract locals and tourists of all stripes to celebrate diversity. Take a look at our newly updated June weather and packing guide, then peruse the June Events in Paris calendar to pinpoint the perfect exhibit, festival or other happening.

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Now On in Paris: Marc Chagall, Between War and Peace

Thu, 16 May 2013 06:32:41 +0000

Image: Marc Chagall, "Rooster Man Above Vitebsk", 1925. Private collection. ©ADAGP, Paris 2013.

Marc Chagall is often misapprehended as a surrealist painter who figured a dream world weirdly distanced from social or political realities. In his most famous and widely reproduced works, floating, vaguely contorted lovers embrace amid cartoonish, grinning goats and roosters; trapeze performers dangle in circuses that seem decidedly anchored in a dream realm.

An exhibit on until July at the Musee de Luxembourg greatly widens our understanding of Chagall's work, including his determined engagement with some of the darker political and social forces of the 20th century, as well as with his own Russian Jewish religious and cultural heritage. "Chagall, Between War and Peace" shows a much wider cross section of the Russian-born, French painter's work; as you move from room to room and gain an understanding of Chagall's personal and artistic development, it becomes clear that the artist did not shirk reality. He used a language and iconography of dreams and fantasy to better understand and respond to it. Neither was he purely a "surrealist": art historians tend to place him outside of the twentieth century's most important schools (Cubism, Suprematism, Modernism) to situate his work as an inventive, hybrid agglomeration of styles and moods.

The exhibit is curated in chronological order, taking us through four main periods, all explored through the tense framework of "war and peace". Some 100 works are included. We begin in 1915 in Russia, plunged in the shocking events of World War I and its mechanized, dehaumanizing violence. Paintings from this period depict people being displaced, wounded soldiers, and other horrors of the war, but also show Chagall's tenderness for his native village, the Jewish community and traditions that tied him to it, and for his wife, Bella.

A second section explores the artist's life and work between the World Wars. In the early 1920s, Chagall was back in Paris from a stay in Russia, and flourished in the city's vibrant and experimental artistic scene. This section shows his fascination with Biblical mythology and allegories, drawing from a broad Judeo-Christian iconography. In addition to the religious-themed paintings, we see in this section the elaboration of Chagall's curious bestiary-- his near-obsession with depicting certain animals (roosters and goats appearing the most frequently in his dream-inspired scenes) and seeming to double for the young couples figured in the paintings. The animals appear as the animus behind Chagall's notion of enduring love, the kind that survives through historical tumult and tragedy.

The third section shows Chagall's works produced after he was forced to flee Nazi-controlled France in 1937. It depicts the horrors of World War II, despite the artist living overseas and far away from the frontlines. This somber period of Chagall's work saw a new emphasis on images of burning villages, refugees, and a palette featuring blood reds and murky browns, in lieu of his usual cool blues and greys. The section also features a series of paintings in which Chagall uses the story and imagery of Christ's crucifixion to allude to the massive human losses occuring in Europe. Finally, it shows Chagall grappling with the loss of his wife, Bella, who died in 1944. He would continue to paint her for many years to come, struggling with his grief.

In the final rooms of the exhibition, we move into the post-war period. Chagall has returned to France, and his work seems marked by a new sense of peace and equanimity. He begins working with new mediums-- stained glass, mosaic, engraving, ceramics, etc-- and experiments with light and color in bold new ways. The last section seems to synthesize many of the artist's ambitions and techniques developed over his life, and show a striking maturity and singularity.

The last works, monumental canvases showing more circus-like scenes, floating lovers and bestiaries, are infused with a sense of joy and serenity, as if Chagall were asserting the value and endurance of human love and work in spite of tragedy.

One word of practical advice: this exhibit has drawn large crowds and reservations online are highly recommended. I had to wait over an hour outside in a winding line to get in, despite having a press pass.

Exhibit: Marc Chagall, Between War and Peace
Through: July 21st, 2013
Location: Musee de Luxembourg
Hours: Every day from 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m; Late nights until 10 p.m. on Mondays and Fridays
Visit the official website

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In Review: Macéo, Vegetarian-Friendly French Gastronomy

Thu, 09 May 2013 14:29:51 +0000

I've become increasingly grumbly and exasperated with Paris restaurant culture's refusal to cater to vegetarians, or to assume that all vegetarians want and need is a plate of raw, unseasoned vegetables. Hailing from California, I have a lot of non-carnivorous friends who are used to vegetarian fare not having to rhyme with bland and uninspired, and I've often been hard-pressed to find good places to take them. Enter Macéo, a traditional-looking outfit near the Palais Royale owned by Mark Williamson, who launched the popular Willi's Wine bar next door. I recently dined there and was more than impressed to note that they give vegetables and vegetarian cuisine a starring role on their inventive, fresh, inspired menu. It's given me entirely new hope that "veggiegastronomy" might have a place in a city that's always been a dream for carnivores. For those who don't want to eschew meat, not to worry: there's plenty on the menu for you, too, but chef Taka, who once worked under the famed French chef Joel Robuchon, always makes creative use of vegetables, no matter the dish.

More: Read my full review of Macéo here

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Around the Corner: Belleville Artists' Studios Open House

Sun, 05 May 2013 02:10:41 +0000

Woody Allen's film Midnight in Paris has Owen Wilson's character, a struggling writer, magically transported back to a Paris circa 1920-something, where he commiserates with the likes of Picasso, Gertrude Stein and Dali. Fantasies of this bygone artistic Golden Period in Paris still loom large in popular culture-- so much so that most people don't realize that the artistic and cultural center of gravity has moved from St-Germain-des-Pres and Montmartre to areas like Belleville, where the rent's much cheaper and artists have set up shop in former small factories and fabriques.

This month, as in past years, over 200 artists will be opening their studios to the public for the event known as the Belleville artists' open house. For some inspiration, let's take a look back at 2012. About.com Paris Travel Contributor Nicole Smith spent an afternoon weaving in and out of countless artists' studios, admiring street art in action, and conversing with artists for the occasion of the open house. She's documented her inspired afternoon in a gallery that gives us an inside glimpse into the 21st century artistic scene in Paris, taking us far from the cliches of so many Hollywood films.

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Image: A conversation with Paris-based painter Alfred Rozelaar Green. Nicole Smith/Licensed to About.com.

Is Paris in Two Days Even Feasible?

Wed, 01 May 2013 02:22:44 +0000

A lot of readers write to me asking whether they can realistically get a sense of the city in only 48 hours. I highly recommend staying longer, and to answer the feasibility question directly, feel that this approach will afford a rather superficial (and harried) version of Paris that certainly won't do it justice. Still, some of you won't have more time, and to address that case, I've put together a flexible program that covers a great deal of the "big stuff", as well as some important but often overlooked places and attractions.

The Paris in two days itinerary is a 48-hour whirlwind, self-guided tour of the places and attractions you should see if you want to get a first taste of the city. Day one covers the classic Paris you know from postcards and includes giants like the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower. The second day sends you to the more contemporary right bank, where artists, young stylists, and immigrant communities generate the pulse of present-day Paris. On the program: a walking tour of the historic Marais quarter and strolls through several of Paris' most dynamic--yet still oh so charming-- neighborhoods. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner suggestions are provided, too.

The best part about the itinerary? It's designed to bend to your whims and tastes, and account for things taking less or more time than you expect. You're free to see as little or as much as you like, and in some cases you're given a choice between two great attractions or restaurants-- the choosing is part of the fun.

Like This? More Ideas for Short Trips to Paris:

Image: The Hotel de Cluny in the Latin Quarter houses the National Medieval Museum. It also features a dazzling medieval-style herbal garden and the remnants of Roman thermal baths. ©2006 Courtney Traub. Licensed to About.com.

In Focus: Visiting Paris With Kids

Mon, 22 Apr 2013 02:48:38 +0000

At first glance, parents may wince at the idea of bringing kids-- especially the youngest ones-- to Paris, which can seem like a giant museum suited only for culturally savvy adults. But the city can be surprisingly kid-friendly if you know where to look, and plan accordingly. From an old-style amusement park confusingly called the "Jardin d'acclimation", to the Grevin wax museum (pictured) and a day of fun just outside the city limits at Disneyland Paris, there's no shortage of places certain to keep your young travelers happy and distracted. Consult our complete guide to the top things to do with kids in Paris to find out more. We've made it more comprehensive than ever by adding more family-oriented attractions to the list, so make sure to bookmark it ahead of your next trip.

Image credit: A wax sculpture at the Musee Grevin. 2006 Tchitcha. Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons License.

Paris Lodgings: Review of Perfectly Paris Apartment Rentals

Sun, 21 Apr 2013 13:52:58 +0000

If you're considering eschewing the hotel route and renting a short-term apartment in Paris instead, take heart: there are more and more high-quality agencies offering lodgings that don't compromise on standards of quality and service. You can see Paris from a more local vantage, shopping at local markets, dashing out to get a good baguette to go with your (home-prepared) morning coffee, and generally feel a bit more at home. What's more, couples traveling together or bigger families can significantly pare down costs on lodging and meals by going for a rental. This week, read my review of Perfectly Paris, a rental service specializing in short-term rentals in Paris' Montmartre district. I recently sojourned in a lovely apartment (pictured) managed by the agency, nestled in a very pleasant, less touristy stretch of the storied old district favored by artists and musicians. Read on for more details on my stay, which proved to be memorable and enjoyable.

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Through April: Special Deal on France Rail Passes

Thu, 18 Apr 2013 05:59:07 +0000

If you're traveling to Paris this month but are also planning to get around to see the rest of France, you might want to lock into a special deal on France Rail Passes from Rail Europe at the moment. Through April 30th, you can purchase a First-class France Railpass or France Rail day card at 20% off. While most of us rarely get to experience traveling first-class by plane, deals like this make kicking back in extra-comfortable seats and enjoying beautiful landscapes from your window, or savoring in first-class meal service, accessible.

There's one unfortunate caveat to this deal, pointed out to me by a reader who tried to book: it's apparently not available for European residents or from those not currently overseas.

To Purchase Passes: (Buy direct at Rail Europe)

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In Pictures: Springtime in Paris

Tue, 16 Apr 2013 02:59:55 +0000

Spring seems to have finally reared its (very late) head, and Parisians are starting to ease out of their notorious wintertime melancholy to take up every available inch of lawn at parks, stage elaborate picnics and roam around the streets again. For a little seasonal inspiration, take a look at our latest gallery: Pictures of Paris in the Springtime . Then check out our seasonal guides below to find out what to see and do in the coming months.

More:

All About Paris in the Springtime
Top Paris Parks and Gardens
Paris Street Markets (useful for stocking up on goodies for picnics)
Romantic Paris Attractions
April Events in Paris

Image: The Ile St Louis is an ideal spot for picnics when spring comes around. Carnavent/Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons License